Mini Multies / Weathering.
After the Brisbane electrification, the 1720 spread their winds state wide and took on new roles.
Things were changing quickly in the bush too. One of the first application of the mini multies was the AM Sunlander (237/236) from Brisbane and the “Queenslander”. Originally multi 93t DEL’s were rostered on these trains, yes a faster time table was set but the trains were only a few cars over the single loco load. Passenger comfort was effected greatly. The answer was in the 1720’s, a 93t and a 63t locos fit the bill nicely. This could be the reason that 1723 got the bi-centennial livery, 2401 and 1723 in their bi-centennial colours first outing together was on the “Queenslander”. In the SED around Brisbane this hook up became known as a mini multie.
Also on the freight side, wagons were being fitted with better braking systems and the length of trains increased for 90 units (450 metres) to 650 metres. Once again two 93t locomotives was a waste of power on the longer trains. On general freight trains just about every wagons has a different weight/mass, full single engines loads were not that far short of the full length, thus a 93t loco was being added for a couple hundred extra tonnes. Once again the 1720 loco was the answer. With the longer trains being pushed around shunting yards, an engine with a bit of grunt was required, you guested it, and the 1720’s filled the bill.
Early 2000’s, third party operators arrived on the network and trains were allocated paths, trains running late and falling out of their paths became a sick train and lost it run. Plus depots were get fewer and far between, if an engine fell over, the nearest loco for assistance could be hundreds of K’s and many hours away. Late trains cause a lot of issues for the operator and customer. 1720’s filled this insurance role, sometimes the trip can be somewhat a lot slower.
Much the same with Cattle Trains, the extra power is not required all that much, just a hill or two along the route.
The two locos in the photos have been weathered using Vallejo acrylic paints. These paints come in 17 ml eyedropper plastic bottle. One or two drops go a long way, dries quickly and cleans up in water. Shop around, the war game suppler sell them for about $ 4.50, generally, at hobby shops they my cost $ 5.00/5.50. The range of colour available is huge.
First I washed the body by brushing it with windshield washer cleaner. Currently I using an ammonia free Armorall Glass Cleaner I purchased from Super Cheap for around $ 10.00. (Sometimes it cheaper with weekend specials).
1. A Grey wash was applied for a faded appearance (Model Color # 70.989 Sky Grey), a couple of drops in about a dessert spoon of windshield washer cleaner.
2. To highlight the various panel doors etc. a Black Wash was applied. (Model Color # 70.862 Black/Grey), a couple of drops in about a dessert spoon of windshield washer cleaner.
3. Vent and grills were picked out with Model Color # 70.862 Black/Grey. A couple of drops in an artist tray, add a couple of drops of windshield washer cleaner.
4. The same was used on the bogies.
5. Top of the footplate was given a khaki 50/50 wash (Model Color # 70.088)
6. From there on, a photo/s could be very usefully, when weathering, not two are the same, era plays a big part, service location, last time the loco was painted / washed / steam cleaned, fuel/oil spills, markings etc. all come into play.
7. Brake blocks on these loco were painted “Rust’ colour, but various period with fibrous blocks I recall them in blue, yellow, purple, sometimes test blocks can be a different colour again.
8. The ends of the fuel tank and sand boxes can have undercoat showing through, springs can have a bit of rust at times. The colours I been trying on the bogies have been Rust (Model Air # 71.069, Model Air is said to be airbrush ready whereas Model Color is thicker), Earth - Game Air # 72.762, Dirt - Model Air # 71.133, Burnt Umber - Model Color # 70.941.
9. Fuel spills on the tank, footplate and oil on the panel sides I use what black I have open, I still have some Floquil “Engine Black” that I’m using up.
10. On some, the cab roof can have a bit rust, Earth - Model Air # 72.762
11. To finish the model I spray 50/50 paint/thinners (Armorall Glass Cleaner),
Dirt – Model Air # 71.133, Earth- Game Air 72.762, and Dust- AK Interactive AK 723. Start with the darker colours and work down to the lighter colours. On the top a fine spray of Model Color # 70.862 Black/Grey, may be a bit more around the exhaust stack.
Trust you fine it helpfully, early days and more experimenting (fun) still to be done. The paints are awesome for painting figures too.